A few months ago I got wind of a new kickboxing place opening up in Chesapeake! I was stoked! I wanted to try something new to shake up my workout routine. I was so very tired of the treadmill and stair master during my competition prep that I considered running to be fun! (Those of you who know how much I dislike running, know how crazy this sounds)
Finally in May I found out that this lovely kickboxing place…so conveniently named ILOVEKICKBOXING.COM was offering classes with gloves for an amazing deal! I immediately signed up.
I went to my first class last Thursday, and I was sold! I then signed up for a yearlong membership.
(Yes I got the girly pink gloves and wraps)
Basically the breakdown so far is this:
15 minutes of warming up which consists of jogging, squatting, planking, pushups, ab workouts, mountain climbers, high knees, burpees, etc. Its basically 15 minutes of a high intensity interval workout to get your whole body moving and ready!
Stretching: some unknown period of time- as stated, now we get to stretch everything out really well. I don’t think this goes on for more than 10 minutes, if that long.
Bag time! This is the fun part where they show and teach you the moves to beat the hell outta that bag. Its fun and it goes through many rounds with different techniques!
I am so excited to be adding this amazing workout into my training!
If you live in the area, or if you don’t (its a franchise all over the country) definitely check them out!
One of the best perks, is that if you have a membership you can go to ANY of their locations!!! Which means if you are traveling, and want to work out…you can!! I plan to do this when I travel to Boston this weekend!!
As you guys all know, I was training for a OCB Bikini competition. It took place this past Saturday June 27th 2015.
My training had been the reasoning behind the lack of activity on here. But I am here to give you the story of the weekend and how my competition went!
Thursday: 2 days out from Competition, I went to work, and afterwards got a spray tan. This was my base color for the show. Being dark on stage helps you show up with all the lights so that the judges can see your muscles and body.
Friday: 1 day out from the show!
I woke up, ate my breakfast, and went grocery shopping! Whoohoo! I got to pick up snack for the competition as well as some goodies to have after it was done! Sadly, my goodies for after the show consisted mainly of fruit.
I then did my own nails with some that I bought at walmart!
Later that afternoon I did a posing practice to make sure I felt confident in my T-walk routine! And then in the evening, My trainer came over and did the first few layers of my Jan Tana coloring, which went over the spray tan and made me dark! I ate dinner and went to bed early that night!
Saturday! Competition Day! I woke up and ate breakfast which consisted of sweet potato, oats, and black cofffee
I woke up early in order to have another layer of Jan Tana put on, as well as my makeup!
This was the base layer, makes me look really funny!
And then it turned into this, but I still thought I looked very odd and unlike myself!!!
My trainer and I headed over to the competition ground around 8am to reserve a spot for the day and to check in! We also touched up my makeup, my Jan Tana color, and put on the suit!
I felt great! But now we had to wait until I was about to go on stage. So we did some light exercises to keep the blood flowing and muscles pumped!
Finally it was time to go on stage for Prejudging!
The lovely blonde next to me did end up winning!! She was super nice! I was really happy to have met her and the other girls in the show! They were all so amazing!
Later in the evening it was time for the T-walk! I rocked mine! (aside from slipping at one point) But first we had to do touch ups to the tan
!
Then I went out on stage and did my walk to “Applause” By Lady GAGA. I felt great, and had a wonderful time!
got goodies from Shanda (my trainer)
Took some pictures with my support!
And then I went out to Eat for Mexican!
And after all the clean eating, all I order was a Pina Colada, and rice and beans!!!
And when I finally made it home, I had beautiful flowers waiting for me from my sister and brother-in-law
Overall it was an amazing experience! I had a blast! I met amazing women!
I was a little disheartened that I did not place, but at the same time was so very happy for all those other girls! They worked just as hard (maybe even harder) than I did and definitely deserved it! But I made sure to talk to the judges afterwards to get feedback!
Now I am 9 weeks away from doing another competition! I will be training extra hard for this one! And I will be super excited to know I now know some of the girls I will be seeing and will be able to hang out the whole day with them again!!
I thought I would share with everyone my journey into the world of bodybuilding competitions!
Back in 2012, I decided I wanted to try and push myself to train and compete in a bodybuilding competition. It never happened. But I had the bikini, the shoes, and the hopes to one day compete.
For those of you who do not know much about the competition world there are 4 classes so to speak:
Bikini
(Jessica Arevalo)
Figure
(Nicole Wilkins)
Fitness
(Andreia Brazier)
Physique
(Dana Linn Bailey)
Basically as you go from Bikini, to physique there is more muscle and definition. I am competing in an OCB Bikini.
I won’t go into all the detail of each division, I feel the the pictures above help people get the idea. Also, there are two federations in which you can compete: OCB and NPC. I do not feel I can 100% give you differences between the two, as far as competing, you can do one or both.
As with all competitions, their are judges, and they declare the winners.
Ok, so now you have the basics! Back to my story!
After not being able to compete in 2012, I dreamed about the day that I one day would. And in the fall of 2014, I decided, my New Years’ Resolution for 2015 would be to compete!
At the beginning of 2015, I printed off meal prep calendars and started recording everything I ate throughout the day, and the portion sizes. This kept me accountable. I stopped drinking alcohol. (Not that I drink often, but if you are going to be serious about competing, you can’t have any) I would highly recommend the method I chose here, of writing down everything you ate and the amounts on paper for 2 reasons:
1. You won’t feel guilty for seeing the calories involved if you eat dessert or make an unhealthy choice one day
2. When you get a personal trainer to help you 12 weeks out (which I recommend!!!!!!) they will be able to see and calculate what you have been eating and help make a meal plan for you!
I started writing everything down in January, with the start of the new year. When I found my trainer, I was exactly 12 weeks out from the date of the competition I wanted to compete in, and ready to push myself.
*I want to make a side note here- at this point in my life, I was “healthy” and “in shape” by normal social standards. I had since 2009, essentially been going to the gym and doing some form of weightlifting 4 days a week. I also hike, backpack, and walk my dog (2 to 4 miles) every day. SO I was someone who was active and in moderate shape. This isn’t to dissuade anyone, but realistically, everyone is different, so while I was able to wait until 12 weeks out before getting a trainer, some people may need one prior to that. However, if you have never competed before I strongly suggest finding a trainer who has trained people for competitions or that has competed his or herself. And! most importantly, find a POSING INTRUCTOR!!!*
So, my new workout regime and meal plan started in April. Again, I was in moderate shape (pics to be posted later), but the new workout routine was designed to kick my A** and it did. I had felt prior to doing the workouts given to me by my trainer that I was in moderate shape, I did leg days at least 2 times a week, and had a blend of upper body weights for 2 to 3 days a week. I went from doing 3 sets of squats, with 8 to 10 reps and around 115 to 135 pounds to doing 4 sets with reps of 20,16,12,10 and increasing weights as the reps dropped. I started out only being able to do around 85-95 on those reps of 20, and by the time I got to the last set, my weights were barely up to the 115 mark. Now, I can do more, as I have gained muscle and strength. But I learned to value my trainer’s workout, and her knowledge.
Now, so everyone can get a good idea of what I mean:
This is me in 2014, around 138-140 pounds- which I maintained
The green sports bra is me in April at the start of my training around 137-138 pounds, the bathing suit is after 4 weeks of training and around 135 pounds.
I want you to take note, that there is only a 2 pound difference, and yes there was a drop in body fat percentage also.
The take away here, is that nutrition, a clean diet, and the right workout can shape you in ways you never thought.
At the start of my 12 week journey, although I had been eating pretty healthy, my macronutrients changed vastly. Where I had been eating around 60-70 grams of sugar a day, on the meal plan from my trainer, I was only eating around 40 grams. My protein went from around 100grams to 134 grams. You get the idea. I will say, the food has always been delicious, and obviously nutritious. But the changes did take will power to not give into sugar cravings. I can honestly say I do not crave sweets anymore and that processed, prepackaged food does not make my mouth water. After 6 weeks in, my meal plan changed a bit, mostly with a drop in calories. From that point on, and when it dropped 2 weeks out from the competition, my main struggle was that I felt hungry.
Is this 100% healthy? No. But in the competition world, you do have to lean out. Unfortunately it does involve a low caloric intake. I will say, the lowest intake was starting from 2 weeks out, at it was still around 1400 calories a day. Which, for me, made me feel hungry, but since it was only for two weeks, was a necessary evil. Hahaha. Once the competition was over, I went back to eating around 1700 to 1800 calories a day, and eating a clean diet. Staying on a 1400 calorie diet long term would not be healthy for me. Each individual is different.
I will say, for anyone interest in bodybuilding, the reason I recommend a trainer for at least your first competition so you learn the idea behind macronutrients, eating clean, and the workout that works best with it. Most people who want to get into good shape think…lets cut calories! I will only eat 1200 a day. The reality is, its the food you eat more so than the calories. Whole natural foods are always better than processed anything, and cutting calories when trying to lose weight needs to be done with guidance.
Did I do things wrong? Yes, there were days when I had cravings for chocolate. And I gave into them. I would allow myself a small piece. This mostly happened at the beginning/ in the first month. I also had my 27th birthday. And had a small amount of a gluten free cupcake my sisters bought me to celebrate. The first time I gave into a chocolate craving, I panicked and told my trainer. As she said as long as it wasn’t a huge “cheat meal” like a whole pizza, it would be fine. She was right. I had some days where I needed that little extra boost for motivation, and I stopped feeling guilty. I want to mention this because if you start feeling guilty for food, that could manifest later as an eating disorder. Take away here- try not to have full meals that are outside of your meal plan when competing, but if you need that small piece of chocolate, then take it. Do not let the craving get bigger, and do not ever feel guilty for taking it.
There were also days when, I was held late at work and couldn’t eat my pre-made meals as planned. I countered this later by making sure to pack extra/ emergency meals with me. But before I learned to do that, I just would find the best alternative that fit into my macros to help hold me over. For example, my meal 5 during my first 6 weeks had 4 tablespoons of avocado which was roughly 94calories (I don’t remember the break down of the macros). If I got stuck somewhere without my meals, I’d grab a small thing of almonds from the gas station, and look on the back of the package, to see how much I could eat that would be equal to 94 calories. This worked because the macros for avocado and almonds was similar.
I am officially at the 2 weeks out mark. My new plan of the 1400ish calories starts today. As soon As I compete, I will have an updated blog post to let you know how I did, and what I looked like. As of last week here is a flex picture!
Ok It’s neither of those! It’s just me! Who finally is a LVT (Licensed Veterinary Technician!)
It’s been a long while…
As in years…as in 3 or 4 years!!!! I But alas! I have returned. Many things have happened over the past few years, and now that I have:
1. Finished school officially
2. Got my veterinary technician license
3. Found an amazing job
I can finally start focusing on other parts of my life, such as sharing the ins and outs of veterinary medicine, spreading my passion of health and fitness (soon to be a coach), and motivating others to follow their dreams!
I have officially become a fitness coach for Team Beachbody! What does that mean? Aside from saving animals’ lives as a LVT daily, I am now here to offer help and support for anyone interested in changing their health and fitness status!
I am not a certified trainer (that may happen down the line, but one step at a time), and I am not a registered dietitian. However, by being a Fitness/Health coach for Team Beachbody I have access to tools and information by registered dietitians and certified trainers to pass along to you! I am also getting certified as a nutritional therapist. Which means I will be certified to create adjust meal plans to help other people out.
*Disclaimer! I again am not a dietitian, nutritionist, or a doctor, but as a Nutritional Therapist can revamp your diet, make sure there are no deficiencies, and help you find a meal plan that you can stick to for your weightloss/ health needs*
My own personal fitness Journey Started in 2009 when I was diagnosed with Chondromalacia Patella aka arthritis in my patella bones. Between physical therapy and weightlifting I am pain free 90% of the time. In 2013 I was also diagnosed with a severe gluten intolerance. So my diet has also had a huge makeover. I have been doing my own research, and getting advice and help from professionals for years, and now I am here to help you guys!
If you need help and advice on potty training your dog, or selecting food, I can offer advice and assistance. And now if you need help with figuring out ways to live a fit and healthy lifestyle I am also here for you!
If interested, please contact me via MWfitcoach@gmail.com
Moving onward, what can you expect from the revival of rainingdogsncats blog? You can expect animal related posts like I did in the past- some for fun, some about behavior, pets, wild animals, etc. You can also no expect to see health and fitness related topics in the mix. So it will be a blend, of the two things that dominate my life:
Animals! (Yes that’s Zuzu, aka Joojdog. nearly 9 years old !)
What is Inappropriate Elimination? It is going to the bathroom where you are not suppose to.
For the purpose of this blog, I will specifically be discussing the inappropriate elimination of cats….
Going outside the litter box is one of the main issues pet owners face with cats….in fact it is the main reason adult cats are given away or placed in shelters.
However, there can be many reasons your kitty has decided to go outside the box.
“So why do cats urinate or defecate on your bed or carpet? Medical problems are one possibility. Inflammation of the urinary tract may cause painful or frequent urination, inability to urinate, bloody urine, and crying during urination. An affected cat is likely to eliminate outside the litter box if he comes to associate the box with painful urination, or if he has an increased urgency to urinate. In addition, kidney, liver, and thyroid diseases often lead to increased drinking and urination. Inflammation of the colon or rectum, intestinal tract tumors, intestinal parasites, and other gastrointestinal conditions may cause painful defecation, increased frequency or urgency to defecate, and decreased control of defecation. Age-related diseases that interfere with a cat’s mobility (for example, arthritis, nervous system disorders, or muscular diseases), or with his cognitive functions can also influence his ability to get to the litter box in time. In short, any medical condition that interferes with a cat’s normal elimination behavior can lead to house soiling”
They might not always makes sounds…and in truth many indoor cats face issues with urinary problems due to a lack of water, no physical exercises, and obesity.
The University of Cornell created a site containing lots of information on this subject:
Litter Box Aversions
Behavioral problems, such as litter box aversions, inappropriate site preferences, or urine spraying can also lead to house soiling. An aversion implies that there is something about the litter box that your cat finds unsavory. It could be the box, the litter, the location of the box, or all three.
Something about the litter box bothers your cat.
The box contains harsh odors. The litter box may have an offensive odor if you clean it with harsh chemicals. Or, if you don’t clean it enough, the box may smell strongly of ammonia (a normal byproduct of urine). In either case, covered litter boxes hold in and amplify such odors.
The sides of the box are too high. Cats with painful legs, sore joints, or other mobility problems may have trouble getting into a box with high sides. Kittens have similar problems.
Something about the litter bothers your cat.
The litter is dirty. Cats usually prefer clean litter.
The texture of the litter is distasteful. Your cat may have a preference for finer-textured clumping litter over coarser non-clumping litter—or vice versa.
The scent of the litter is unpleasant. Most cats prefer non-scented litter.
The location of the litter box bothers your cat.
The box is in an unpleasant area. Avoid placing the litter box in a high-traffic, noisy, dark, or dank area.
Your cat is afraid to use the box. If another cat, dog, or human terrorizes your cat when she’s in the box, or ambushes her as she exits, she may avoid the box altogether.
Cats with aversions usually eliminate on varying surfaces. You may find puddles of urine and/or feces on either soft surfaces like carpets, beds, or clothing, or on hard, shiny surfaces like tile floors or bathtubs. Depending on the severity of your cat’s aversion, he may continue to use the litter box, but only inconsistently.
Inappropriate Site Preferences
Alternatively, your cat may develop a preference for eliminating in a spot other than the box. Preferences can be categorized as follows:
Another surface is more desirable for elimination. Cats that prefer certain surfaces usually stick with that choice. For example, a cat that finds it more pleasing to eliminate on soft surfaces like clothing or carpets would be unlikely to use tile floors.
Another location is more desirable for elimination. This usually results from an aversion to the current box location.
As with aversions, cats with preferences for certain surfaces or locations may continue to use the litter box inconsistently. One cause for house soiling may lead to another. For example, a cat with a urinary tract disorder that can’t make it to the litter box in time will urinate wherever she is. She may then develop a preference for the new site and continue to eliminate there.
Urine Spraying
When your cat rubs against your leg with his face, or scratches his scratching post, he is also depositing his scent from the glands in his cheeks and paws. Another equally normal but less pleasant marking behavior is urine spraying–the deposition of small amounts of urine around a given area. Spraying announces a cat’s presence, establishes or maintains territorial boundaries, and advertises sexual availability.
Cats usually spray on vertical surfaces, like the backs of chairs, or walls. They don’t squat to spray (as they do to urinate), but the tail lifts and quivers, and small puddles of urine are left in several consistent locations. Cats that spray are usually unneutered males and, to a lesser extent, unspayed females, but 10% of neutered males and 5% of neutered females also spray. In households with more than seven cats, the likelihood of spraying is high.
Cats may spray when they perceive a threat to their territory, such as when a new cat enters the home, or when outside cats are nearby. New furniture and carpet smells can prompt spraying as well. Cats may also spray out of frustration resulting from factors—like restrictive diets, or insufficient playtime—often wrongly perceived by humans as revenge.
My cat is not using the litter box reliably. What should I do?
First, address the problem promptly. The longer the behavior persists, the more likely it is to become habit. If you have more than one cat, you may need to separate them until you can identify the responsible party. Alternatively, your veterinarian can provide you with a special non-toxic stain given by mouth that will show up in the urine. In cases of defecation outside the box, you can feed one cat small pieces (about twice the size of a sesame seed) of a brightly colored non-toxic child’s crayon that will show up in the feces. If you find urine puddles in the house, it is important to distinguish between spraying and other forms of house soiling. Watch your cat for signs of spraying—or set up a video camera when you’re not around.
Once you have identified the house-soiling cat, it is wise to take him to your veterinarian for a thorough physical examination and appropriate diagnostic tests to see if there are underlying medical problems. Cats with medical conditions may not always act sick. Once medical causes have been ruled out, your detective work begins. Here are some patterns that may point to a cause:
Is there one type of surface upon which your cat eliminates? If so, she may have a preference for certain surfaces, and you can modify your litter to match it. If she likes soft surfaces like carpeting, buy a softer, finer litter, and put a carpet remnant in her box. If she has a penchant for smooth, shiny surfaces, consider putting tiles in her box, covered with only a small amount of litter. Over time more litter can be added.
Is there a certain location she prefers? She may have developed a preference for a new area because something bothered her about the old area. Try placing a litter box in her “preferred” location. Once she reliably uses it, gradually move the box just a few inches a day back to the desired location. Stop moving the box if she stops using it; instead simply move it back to the spot where she last reliably used it, then gradually begin moving it again.
Is yours a multi-pet household where another animal terrorizes your cat while she’s in the litter box or as she exits? If so, the cat may be afraid to use the box. If you currently use a covered box, replace it with one that gives her a 360-degree view. This will give her more confidence while she’s in the box and make her less prone to ambush. Also, position the box so that she has more than one way out (i.e. don’t have the box surrounded on three sides). Finally, place multiple boxes in multiple locations to give your cat more options.
When your cat uses the box, does he cry, refuse to bury his waste, perch on the edge of the box without touching the litter, or eliminate right near the box?
If so, first be sure the box is clean. Some cats refuse to use a box containing any urine or feces whatsoever; meticulous litter box cleanliness is necessary for these individuals. (See “Keeping the Litter Box Clean.”)
Your cat may dislike the litter you use, especially if you’ve recently and suddenly changed brands. If you must switch brands, do so gradually, adding more of the new litter to the old with each cleaning. Most cats prefer their litter unscented, and an inch or two deep.
The box itself may be the offender. Larger cats need bigger boxes, and kittens and elderly cats need boxes with low sides. Although humans like covered boxes for reducing odor and stray litter, from your cat’s point of view, covers hold odors in, and restrict his view of the area. You may need to purchase several types of boxes and several types of litter to determine which combination your cat likes best. Finally, provide as many boxes as there are cats in the house—plus one. For example, if you have two cats, there should be three litter boxes. This decreases competition and gives each cat a box of his or her own.
How can I stop my cat from spraying?
Because spraying is different than other types of house soiling, different tactics are necessary to manage it. First, because there are often hormonal components to spraying, any intact animal should be neutered or spayed. Next, identify the stimuli that cause your cat to spray. If outside cats are responsible, motion detectors that trigger sprinklers can be used to deter them from coming onto your property. Additionally, you can discourage your cat from looking outside by closing blinds or shades, or by placing double-sided tape or electronic mats that deliver mild shocks onto your windowsills.
Address possible sources of frustration that may be causing your cat to spray. For example, introduce a new diet gradually, or discontinue it until the spraying is under control. Increasing the amount of playtime for an under-stimulated cat may also help ease frustration.
Spraying can also result from territorial disputes between cats in the same household. They may need to be separated and reintroduced slowly, using food treats to reward and encourage peaceful behavior.
Applying odor neutralizers anywhere your cat has sprayed may prevent him from spraying there again. Another useful commercial product is Feliway®, a synthetic pheromone that, when applied to household surfaces, mimics the scent of cat cheek gland secretions. Many cats will not spray on areas that have this scent. (See the end of this brochure for information on where to purchase the above-mentioned products.)
Will medications stop my cat from house soiling?
Spraying is more responsive to anti-anxiety drugs than other types of house soiling. However, medication is only part of the solution, and must be used in conjunction with environmental changes. Any medication can have potentially damaging and/or unwanted side effects, and not all cats are good candidates. Cats placed on long-term medication must be monitored closely by a veterinarian.
What can I use to clean my cat-soiled carpet, couch, and other household items?
Cats will re-soil and spray areas previously impregnated with their scent. Therefore, cleaning up your cat-soiled belongings is important, not only to undo the damage, but to break the cycle of elimination. Because it is much easier to eliminate odors in recently-soiled areas, clean them as soon as possible. A cat’s sense of smell is far keener than ours; therefore odors must be neutralized, not just deodorized. However, avoid cleaning products containing ammonia or vinegar—they smell like urine and can be irritating.
Sheets of plastic, newspaper, or sandpaper, electronic mats that deliver harmless, mild shocks, or a carpet runner with the nubs facing up may all discourage your cat from entering a soil-prone area.
Try changing the significance of a soiled area. Cats prefer to eat and eliminate in separate areas, so try placing food bowls and treats in previously soiled areas. Playing with your cat in that space and leaving toys there may also be helpful.
Try denying your cat access to a given area by closing doors, or by covering the area with furniture or plants. Baby gates will not keep a cat out of a room.
Catch him in the act. A bell on a breakaway collar tells you his whereabouts. If you can catch him within the first seconds of his elimination routine, startle him with a water gun or shake a jar of pennies, so that he associates being startled with those actions. It is important that you startle rather than scare him; fear will only worsen the problem. Moreover, if you catch him after he’s eliminated, your window of opportunity is gone—you must catch him just as he’s about to eliminate.
Never hit, kick, or scream at a cat. Not only does this create more anxiety, which may contribute to house soiling behavior, but also such tactics provide no link between the “crime” and the punishment. Some owners resort to rubbing their cat’s face in their excrement to “teach the cat a lesson.” This is completely ineffective, first because cats do not view their urine and feces as distasteful, and second, because even moments later, cats cannot make the connection between the mess on the bed and this kind of punishment.
Conclusion
A common and frustrating problem, inappropriate elimination can be difficult to control. A full resolution depends on early intervention, followed by detective work to determine the cause of the behavior, and time and effort on your part to solve the problem. In partnership with veterinarians, both cats and the people who love them can live in harmony and good health.
There are many ways to solve the cats behavioral or medical problems that cause inappropriate elimination…remember that yelling at your cat will not help the situation, but likely only make it worse.
Feliway is a pheromone product that comes in the form of a spray as well as a plug in, and works wonders on helping stressed cats calm down.
Just remember that while it is very frustrating, getting rid of your cat at a shelter will likely get it euthanized. If you don’t want to fix your cats issues, what makes you believe other people will? The fact is, they won’t and majority of adult cats brought into shelters for inappropriate elimination are euthanized.
So even if you spend a month or two and couple $100, by taking that time you are giving your cat a second chance, and likely will solve the issue. And if push comes to shove, you can always make it an outdoor cat so long as it is not declawed.
It is an endangered species, that I for one have always supported. Rhinos are a rare breed indeed.
“Rhinoceroses get their name from their horns. The word rhinoceros comes from the Greek rhino (nose) and ceros (horn). Rhino horns are made of keratin, like our fingernails and hair.”
“There are five types of rhinos: black, white, Sumatran, Javan, and Indian. Black and white rhinoceros come from Africa. Both are the same color—brownish gray. It is thought that the white rhino got its name from the Dutch word for wide (wijde or weit) since they have a wide mouth. White rhino graze on grasses, while black rhino with their “hooked lip” can eat plant shoots, shrubs and leaves.”
Did you know a group of Rhinos is called a crash? Or perhaps that the reason they roll in the mud is to protect themselves from the sun?
Rhinos have always fascinated me, and like other endangered species, I have wondered what we as humans can do to help. Rhinos are endangered because of Humans wanting their horns. Unfortunately, like elephant tusks there are people who like the horns like a trophy, there are those who believe the horns are medicinal effects etc.
Something else has hit the Rhino population, a sickness that cannot be identified. To me this is a very scary thought. Without being able to identify the disease, hopes to create vaccines or cures are slim to none. Here is more info:
Female recovers, but fatal white rhino disease remains a mystery
POSTED ON JULY 2ND, 2012
A female rhinoceros exhibiting symptoms of a condition which claimed the lives of four of her conspecifics appears to have overcome her illness, despite exhaustive testing failing to identify the aetiological agent.
The mystery illness claimed the lives of four adult White Rhinoceros at Taronga Western Plains Zoo within a period of weeks in March, sparking an international investigation. Affected rhinos exhibited a range of signs, particularly neurological signs including stumbling and ataxia prior to their deaths.
The female also exhibited these signs, but survived the illness along with two other males which remain unaffected. Last month the zoo reported that the female White Rhino had improved and was assessed to have a good prognosis following intensive monitoring and supportive care after exhibiting neurological signs. All other affected animals had died despite intervention. The two remaining males, neither of whom have exhibited symptoms, remain healthy. No other animals at the zoo – including the black rhinoceros – have experienced the illness.
The intensive, eight-week-long investigation, lead by the Zoo, involved collaboration with Rhinoceros specialists in Africa and North America, Government virologists and veterinary services as well as multiple pathology laboratories.
A Working Group, consisting of the State’s most experienced veterinarians and pathologists including the Department of Primary Industries Chief Veterinary Officer was established to assist with the investigation.
Despite performing a battery of tests to isolate a bacterial, viral or environmental causes – a process which ruled out numerous possibilities – the results remain inconclusive. What investigators do know is that the deaths are unlikely to be due to bacterial infection, snake bite, organ failure, environmental toxins, food contamination and a suite of viruses including West Nile Virus and Hendra Virus.
According to Senior Veterinarian Benn Bryant, the Working Group is confident that the remaining White Rhinos pose no health risk and that quarantine restricts could be eased.
“The Working Group is confident that every possible avenue has been explored and that the full resources available to the Zoo and the Department of Primary Industries have been utilised,” he said.
“It’s not unusual in biomedical investigations that a cause for an illness cannot be categorically confirmed,” he added. “However, we have the ability to re-open the investigation at any time if new information comes to hand and to provide tissue samples for further testing.”
Bryant said staff continued to grieve for the lost animals. Despite the lifting of quarantine restrictions, the White Rhinos will be off exhibit for a period of months to facilitate scheduled maintenance.
Director of the Taronga Conservation Society Australia, Cameron Kerr, committed to ensure “that all aspects of the investigation including the extensive test results are reported and published to add to the global knowledge of this species.”
<page_body>Years of overusing deworming drugs on our nation’s farms may finally be catching up to us, say researchers at the University of Georgia. According to a recently published study, parasitic worms that infect cows, goats, sheep and horses are becoming increasingly resistant to drugs that have commonly been used to control them.Ray Kaplan, DVM, PhD, a professor in the university’s department of infectious diseases, has been studying this kind of drug resistance for years and says that continued overuse of deworming drugs may soon lead to a population of intestinal parasites that cannot be killed. “We’re already seeing the worst-case scenario playing out,” Kaplan says. “In goats particularly, which have the worst problems with parasites and drug resistance, we quite frequently see farms that have parasite resistance to all dewormers. Some of these farms reached the point where they no longer could control the effects of the parasites and decided to go out of business.”
For years, farmers and ranchers have been prophylactically administering dewormers to their livestock to enhance growth and productivity, but with continued use, parasites have grown increasingly resistant to many of these drugs, forcing farmers to seek out alternative drugs or rely on their own concoctions for parasite control. Kaplan warns that if the industry fails to recognize the severity of the situation and continues to overuse dewormers, many farmers will be driven out of business, thanks to poor productivity and profitability from their herds.
So what can be done to resolve the situation? Kaplan suggests that farmers embrace a new way of thinking when it comes to parasite control. First and foremost, he recommends reserving drug use for only those animals that suffer from large or dangerous parasite burdens, which will expose fewer parasites to the drugs and thus minimize resistance.
He also suggests that farmers consider changing the grazing patterns of their livestock. When animals are allowed to graze freely, they naturally gravitate toward certain areas of pasture and risk coming into contact with more fecal matter, the vehicle for parasite transmission. However, if farmers divided their pastures into segments and frequently rotated their herds to new grass, the animals would encounter less fecal material and the likelihood of parasite ingestion would decrease. In addition, parasites left behind on temporarily unused pastures would eventually die off.
“We’re trying to change the paradigm of parasite control so that farmers are willing to accept a certain level of production loss in exchange for sustainability,” Kaplan says. “We need to use less of these drugs and use them more intelligently and selectively.”
Kaplan’s full study results can be found in the May 2012 issue of Veterinary Parasitology.
This is a troubling matter to me..the idea of animals becoming resistant to dewormers….it may be livestock now, but what if it happens in house pets?
Ok I have seen, read, experienced some relatively disturbing things in my life. Many times when I read about something, or something occurs I have a moment of shock where I think, WTF. Most of the time it involves reading about oh the flesh eating bacteria in GA or maybe that strange case of a man eating someone else face…..very disturbing right?
Well today I came across something that disturbs me on many levels, and overall astonishes me that it happened. Please read on:
A small humane society in northern Georgia has been deceiving pet owners by claiming to be a no kill shelter, collecting donations for its cause, and killing the dogs it claims to save.
Fox5 I-Team reports:
Pet owners from hundreds of miles away drive to a small humane society in the north Georgia mountains because they think they’re saving lives, but an undercover Fox5 I-Team investigation found exactly the opposite. For $100, customers could guarantee their dog or cat at the Boggs Mountain Humane Shelter would not be euthanized.
In a revolting case of deception, the shelter sent e-mails to owners forced to relinquish their pets telling them their lucky pet had been adopted – when in fact, they had been killed.
Most likely many of you have experienced an adrenaline rush. I know I have…especially when play sports (Basketball) and the game was close or tied. You get that extra ummph of energy and can push a bit harder or move a bit faster.
Scientifically speaking, an Adrenaline rush is ” the fight or flight response of the adrenal gland, in which it releases adrenaline (epinephrine). When releasing adrenaline, one’s body releases dopamine which can act as a natural pain killer. An adrenaline rush causes the muscles to perform respiration at an increased rate improving strength. It also works with the nervous system to interpret impulses that trigger selective glands.”
There have been many strange stories of people lifting cars to save babies and doing what appears to be superhero acts when they get an adrenaline rush in a desperate time, or time of extreme need.
In a recent article, that I will share a 75 year old woman fought off two cougars to save her dog..whether or not she experienced an adrenaline rush…she definitely showed some superhuman bravery if not more!
75 YEAR OLD WOMAN FIGHTS OFF TWO COUGARS TO SAVE DOG
An elderly Canadian woman says her protective instincts took over when two cougars attacked her eight year old terrier. Jackie Simonson, 75, was out walking Teddi when the big cats quickly approached them and grabbed the dog by the throat.
“The two cougars ran out of the building there and starting chasing my dog and one got a hold of her by her throat.” says Simonson. She says there was no help in sight, so she was left to defend her beloved pet on her own. Using all of her strength, she began to kick the cougars in an attempt to free Teddi. “I couldn’t do anything but kick it.”
Painfully aware of her odds, Simonson said she knew it was unlikely that she would win a fight against the cougars, but she couldn’t bear the thought of standing by and watching them kill her dog.
“There’s nothing else to do, there’s nobody around,” says Simonson.
She kept kicking the cougars while pursuing them as they attempted to carry Teddi away. “I kicked and I kicked and they wouldn’t let go. It was horrible,” says Simonson tearfully. “All I could see was her dead.”
Surprisingly, when she thought all hope was lost, Simonson managed to save her dog with two well-placed head kicks to both cats: stunned by the blows, the cougars dropped Teddi and ran off. She said aside from a broken jaw and a few puncture wounds Teddi is in fairly good shape. He is scheduled for surgery tomorrow and is expected to make a full recovery.
Simonson She says risking her personal safety to save her pet was never a consideration – she was just doing her best to protect a beloved family member.
“I couldn’t have grabbed her, that wouldn’t have worked. That would have killed her,” says Simonson. “I had to kick the animal.”
(Yes I got the girly pink gloves and wraps)
And fitness! (This was a picture from a 6 mile race I did Memorial day weekend)
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